Phugtal Monastery

 Text and Photographs by Mr. Sachin Vaidya


Phugtal Monastery is located 60 km South East of Padum (Kargil District of Ladakh). It is a day’s trek (return). Accommodation is available at Monastery. Its main temples were constructed inside a huge cave on the mountainside above Tsrap River and the later additions were almost beehive-like accretions. It was founded by Gangsem Sherap Sampo during 12th century. Its monks belong to the Gelugpa order. Its altitude is 13,123 feet above sea level.



I visited the Monastery during July 2019. I travelled from Padum to Anmo Village by a dedicated vehicle. The [return] vehicle costed Rs. 6,000. Anmo Village is a picturesque village in Zanskar Valley.




A basic tea stall [in tent] was catering to the trekkers.




As I needed a guide, the tea stall owner called a teenager from the Village and I started the trek.




The trek was a high altitude one; however, there were no ups and downs. The path was not at all slippery. It could have been done without guide.






Tsrap River accompanied me throughout the trek.










There was a bridge besides the route; however, there was no need to walk over it.


It was connecting to other village and not to the Monastery.




Government signboard indicated nearness to Gompa.


Phugtal Gompa is visible at a distance in the following photograph:


Stone engravings were a common sight near any Buddhist monastery.



Stupas lined the path to the Monastery.


Phugtal Gompa's location appeared to be difficult to approach; however, the path was wide and not slippery.


Everybody had to pass through a traditional gate.



Following is [inside] ceiling of the gate.


Green fields were visible from near the gate of Gompa.



This was the main entrance to the Gompa:



Approximate duration of the trek was two and half hours [one way].

A [closed] dispensary [of tribal medicine] was visible immediately after stepping in.



Photographs inside the Gompa cave did not come out good; however, they had been retained for memory.





The Gompa had typical Ladakhi wooden ceiling.



There were a few other structures at Gompa.




Photography inside the Gompa shrines was prohibited.

My guide was knowing the Gompa inmates. As he had lunch at the Gompa, I also had lunch there. I handed over fruits [brought by me] to my guide to be distributed among the monks and guest.

There was a Rajasthani teacher who had come to teach at the Gompa school for some days; in the next photograph, he can be seen feeding crows after lunch.



The teenager lama, who showed us the Gompa, was with me.



A section of residential quarter is visible here.



After spending more than an hour at Gompa, it was time to say good bye.



There was a stream and a bridge; however, there was no need to cross it.




In the past, Phugtal Monastery trek was two / three days' trek involving overnight halt[s] at Gompa guest house and / or at homestays in nearby villages. However with advancement of road, most of the homestays had been shut down. Still a few trekkers do stay at Gompa guest house to have feel of the monastery life. When I trekked towards the Gompa, a group of foreign tourists [looking like from South East Asia] returned from Gompa. They might had stayed at Gompa guest house for a night.

Comments

  1. TreklineOctober 22, 2021 at 10:46 PM

    Phugtal monastery is located in one of the most scenic terrain. This gets adequately reflected in your images and description.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. SachinOctober 23, 2021 at 5:07 AM

      The trek was easy; you could have easily done even in your 70s.

      Delete

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